Diamonds

CLARITY
Clarity is an indication of its purity. In all diamonds, except the most rare, diamond grades are determined by tiny traces of minerals, gasses, or other elements that were trapped inside during the crystallization process. The flaws that affect the diamond clarity and stop it from becoming a certified diamond are called inclusions. Virtually all natural diamonds that become certified diamonds contain identifying characteristics, yet many are invisible to the naked eye. Under the scrutiny of a jeweler's 10x-magnifying loupe or microscope and learned diamond education, natural phenomena -- called inclusions -- may be seen. These are nature's birthmarks that determine diamond grades, and they may look like tiny crystals, clouds, or feathers.

The diamond grades are given based on diamond clarity: how many, how big, and how visible the inclusions are. The fewer and smaller the inclusions, the higher the diamond grade, the more rare and valuable the diamond is, and the better the diamond clarity. Less than 1% of all diamonds ever found have had no inclusions with very high diamond grades and can be called flawless (FL) or internally flawless (IF). Diamonds that bear visible and repeated inclusions receive lower diamond grades and are therefore less rare. Diamonds with inclusions visible to the naked eye receive diamond grades ranging from I1 to I3.

Internally Flawless and Flawless Stones

Diamond clarity has yet another facet to its composition. Diamond clarity refers to the diamond’s natural brilliance. The determination of diamond clarity occurs through a process known as dispersion. When a beam of light is reflected, refracted and deflected within the stone, this breaks the beam into the spectrum of rainbow colors that makes a diamond glitter. But for it to happen with the proper drama and beauty, a stone must have a high degree of diamond clarity. This is why the diamond clarity of white diamonds is so valuable. They are very clear and virtually colorless.

Certified diamonds categorized as internally flawless reveal no such inclusions. Flawless stones are at the pinnacle of the Diamond Hierarchy and are treasured for their rarity, beauty and monumental pricing. Certified diamonds with very, very small inclusions are graded as VVS1 or VVS2. Diamonds that aren’t certified diamonds have larger inclusions, lower diamond grades and are more common. Inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye are graded I1 or I3.

The number, color, type, size and position of surface and internal inclusions affect a diamond's value. Major inclusions can interfere with the diamond clarity and path of light that travels through a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and sparkle and therefore its value. Please review the diamond clarity chart below for an in depth analysis and better diamond education. Remember that Flawless and Internally Flawless diamonds are at the highest end of the price spectrum, while I1 to I3 diamonds are at the lowest.

COLOR
Most individuals admire the diamond for what appears to be brilliant diamond color when they search through magazines or watch a gala production such as the Oscars, the ultimate mix of chic clothing and luxurious fine jewelry. It is perhaps why individuals associate the traditional or ideal diamond as totally colorless. In truth, the most rare diamonds are completely flawless and have no color.

Diamond grading that determines the diamond quality and if stones become certified diamonds is construed by the American Gem Society (AGS) and or receive GIA, IGI or EGL Certification. Diamond grading receiving Certification is based on diamond color starting at D and continuing through the alphabet. Truly colorless stones, graded D, are treasured for their rarity and value. It's this absence of color that makes the diamond quality. While many diamonds appear colorless, they may actuallyhave subtle yellow or brown tones and these diamond color grades include P and Q. Even the slightest tinge of yellow or brown in the diamond color will decrease its value. Although the diamond color is still beautiful, their diamond quality will be less and therefore less valuable.

This inclusion of diamond color in an otherwise ideal white diamond shouldn't be confused with a fancy diamond, whose well defined diamond colors include red, pink, blue, green and canary yellow and have high diamond quality because of their rarity. To appreciate the simple beauty and diamond quality of each individual stone, you should compare diamonds side by side with a jeweler.

CUT
A diamond cut that is well made offers the greatest brilliance and value. While nature determines the diamond quality with carat weight and color, the hand of a master craftsman is necessary to release its fire, sparkle, and beauty. When diamond cuts exude excellent diamond quality with good proportions, light will reflect from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse through the top of the diamond cut stone, resulting in a display of brilliance and fire. Most gemologists agree the diamond cut is the most important because without it the diamond will appear dull.

Studies have shown that table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth have a dramatic effect on the diamond quality and appearance. Exacting angles, proportions, symmetry, carat weight and polish are all are taken into consideration before a diamond cut is assessed. Below is the diamond carat’s composition:

A DIAMOND’S PROPORTIONS

A well-cut diamond, regardless of carat size, has high diamond quality when it reflects light back evenly in the face-up position, with no dark areas. It returns the most amount of light to the eye, as brilliance. The diamond quality is displayed as dispersion, or fire, meaning those spectral colors of light, which adds richness to a stone's sparkle. The diameter of the diamond, no matter the carat size, compared to the depth and the diameter of the diamond compared to the table determine how the light will reflect through the diamond. This determines the overall diamond quality.

A DIAMOND’S POLISH

-When buffed to a smooth finish, a diamond has polish and exudes full diamond quality. A diamond's sparkle comes from both its  reflection from the diamond cuts and the refraction of light.

-The light that is thrown back from the diamond cut to the viewer from the diamond's surface is known as EXTERNAL REFLECTION.

-The light from a diamond cut that is absorbed by the stone through refraction, deflected by the density of the stone to its center, and  then reflected back out the top of the stone, is known as INTERNAL REFLECTION.

A DIAMOND’S SYMMETRY

This is judged by how well the diamond cuts line up against each other, which determines how efficiently they throw light between them. Variations in diamond cut symmetry include off-center culets and tables, poor diamond cut alignment, misshapen diamond cuts, out-of-round girdles, and wavy girdles.

THE GRADING OF DIAMOND CUTS

Below is the grading scale used for diamond cuts:

Ideal Cut/Excellent Diamond Cut: Produces the maximum amount of light reflection. This refers only to the round brilliant.

Very Good Diamond Cut: Reflects nearly as much light as the Ideal cut.

Good Diamond Cut: Reflects back a sizable amount of light entered.

Fair Diamond Cut: It maximizes carat weight, but sacrifices sparkle.

Poor Diamond Cut: It produces very little brilliance.

CARAT
A diamond's carat size is measured in carat weight, and each carat is equal to 100 points. A .50 carat diamond is the same as a 50-point diamond or a ½ carat stone. It is important to note that while larger diamonds are highly prized, diamonds of equal size may vary widely in value and brilliance, depending on the diamond quality and color as well as the diamond clarity and diamond cut.

As a rule of thumb, diamonds with a higher carat weight and many diamond colors are found relatively infrequently in nature, which places them at the most rare level of the Diamond Quality Pyramid. A bigger carat diamond is desirable because it shows off a stone’s fine color and diamond cut, and therefore its brilliance, to its best advantage. A large carat diamond is also easier for her to show off to all her friends!

Which Carat is Best for Her?

Choosing the best diamond based on the diamond cut and the carat weight may be difficult. A good starting point is to consider her style and of course your budget. Check out our guide to buying an engagement ring; it’s helped hundreds of people find just the desired diamond clarity and carat weight. We’re also able to custom design your wedding jewelry with lifetime servicing guarantees on all pieces to keep the fine diamond quality for generations. From elated engagements to overwhelming anniversaries, 25 years of trustworthy jewelry success can’t be wrong!